Elsa Schiaparelli: fashion becomes art - at the Victoria and Albert Museum
From the 1920s, Elsa Schiaparelli sent shockwaves through the fashion establishment, dressed the era’s most glamorous women and collaborated with the era’s most celebrated artists
If you possibly can, please do visit the Elsa Schiaparelli exhibition which is currently* on at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. I lost myself there for several hours recently…
*The exhibition is open at the time of writing, which is July 2026. Closes November 2026.
The exhibition standard is high (as always for the V&A) with fabulous and beautifully presented examples of Schiaparelli’s work. It also includes examples of the more recent work of Maison Schiaparelli under Daniel Roseberry, who has been Creative Director since 2019.
“‘That Italian artist who’s making clothes’”
On the blog - Elsa Schiaparelli sent shockwaves through the fashion establishment, dressed the era’s most glamorous women and collaborated with the era’s most celebrated artists www.susanholtonknitwear.com
Elsa Schiaparelli at a glance
Born in Rome in 1890
Born into an aristocratic and intellectual family
Moved to Paris in the 1920s to establish her couture house
During the 1930s became Coco Chanel’s principal rival
Worked with artists such as Salvador Dali, Jean Cocteau and Man Ray
Her couture house closed in 1954 (due to the influence of changing tastes and the dominance of Dior’s ‘New Look’)
Today she is widely recognised as a pioneer who blurred the boundaries between art and fashion and her work is celebrated worldwide
She died in 1973
Collaborating with celebrated artists
Schiaparelli sent shockwaves through the fashion establishment by not f0llowing traditional ideas of ‘elegance’. She embraced Surrealism, and worked closely with artists such as Salvador Dali, Jean Cocteau, Alberto Giacometti and Man Ray, to produce some of the most iconic garments in fashion history. Famous (or occasionally infamous) garments included the Lobster Dress* and the Skeleton Dress as well as the Shoe Hat (all three in collaboration with Salvador Dali).
She caused a stir at Wimbledon in 1931 by, shockingly, clothing Lili Alvarez in culottes.
*The lobster dress was perhaps most famously worn by Wallis Simpson, in 1937. She was photographed wearing the Lobster Dress by Cecil Beaton.
“‘For myself, fashion is not a craft but an art’”
Coco Chanel’s principal rival
She was Coco Chanel’s principal rival during the 1930s, dressing the era’s most glamorous women, including ‘society figures’ (such a lovely ‘job’ description!) as well as the celebrities of their day, such as Marlene Dietrich, Wallis Simpson and Mae West. She was unusual amongst designers of her generation in believing that fashion should surprise, amuse and provoke as well as flattering the wearer.
Shocking pink
She introduced innovations to couture, such as visible zips, costume jewellery and, her signature colour: shocking pink.
“‘What Schiaparelli does is always important.’”
Early proponent of the capsule wardrobe?
In 1940 she visited the USA for a 30-city lecture tour. The description ‘limited luggage, unlimited chic’ was used by Vogue Magazine when she arrived to highlight her genius for packing light. She focused on interchangeable mix-and-match pieces - so she was an early proponent of the capsule wardrobe with her clever curation of her travel wardrobe…
Blurring boundaries between art and fashion
Today she is widely recognised as a pioneer who blurred boundaries between art and fashion, and influenced generations of designers from Yves Saint Laurent and Christobal Balenciaga right up to the current head of Maison Schiaparelli, Daniel Roseberry.
“‘Limited luggage, unlimited chic.’”
This blog post is intended as a visual review and record of the fabulous ‘Elsa Schiaparelli’ exhibition currently on at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. If you would like more in-depth information, here are some suggestions to get you started:
Elsa Schiaparelli at the V&A exhibition (ends November 2026)
The V&A Museum’s bookshop, which is a treasure trove, as ever
Explore the V&A’s Elsa Schiaparelli collections
The V&A Museum’s ‘Schiaparelli: fashion becomes art’ exhibition book (ISBN 9781838510619)
About Susan Holton Knitwear
For those that don’t know me yet, I’m a Surrey UK based knitwear-designer-maker creating luxury contemporary knitwear and accessories for women. This website is the main ‘shop’ for my knitwear, you can browse my shop by clicking the button below.
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